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Glossary

BACKSTITCH

A method of sewing with overlapping stitches. Generally done by hand in order to decorate or to combine more firmly part of the shirt.

BAND COLLAR

The exposed part of the collar of the shirt that encircles and is folded downward, not to show any turndown collar points.

BATISTE

Very fine and almost transparent linen or cotton fabric, is used for shirts, handkerchiefs and bed or table linens. The name probably originates from his first producer: Baptiste de Cambrai, who lived in the thirteenth century.

BIAS

A garment made of woven fabric when the fabric's warp and weft threads are diagonally across the grain.

BUTTON-DOWN

Collar with the pointed end fastened to front of the shirt by buttons. The shirt with button-down collar has been used for the very first time by English polo players in the seventeenth Century, to prevent their collars from flying up and cover their faces during the matches.

CARRE’

French term which refers the reinforced top of the shirt’s shoulders.

CASHMERE

Fur of the goat of Kashmir and Tibet, raised in the highlands of Central Asia, in Russian Turkestan, but also in China, Mongolia and India. It 's the most refined and luxury fiber for its soft and subtlety wool, which creates heat only by touching it. The fur is obtained by brushing the undercoat of the long-haired goats and commonly it has a color ranging from white to yellow brown.

COMPOSITE MATERIAL

Patterned fabric not printed but obtained with woven threads of different colors.

Patterned fabric not printed but obtained with woven threads of different colors.

Crossing between the Latin "confectio" - composition, and the French "confection" - fashion industry.

COTTON

From the Arabic "Qutun." Gathered from the hair on the surface of seeds pods of the homonym plant, it is the most important and most diffused vegetable textile fiber. There are different kinds of cotton, according to its origin. The finest is the Sea Island, by a long silky fiber, which is used for the most refined works. The Egyptian cottons is also called "Jumel" or "Moho" and ranges over different shades of color, from yellow to brown. The Peruvian cottons, fine as the Egyptian, have the appearance of wool. Therefore they are ofted used in combination with this fiber. The American cotton called "Upland" is a short fiber kind and takes its name from its place of origin: Texas, Mississippi, Georgia, and Orleans.

CUFF

A fold or band of fabric placed at the wrist, serving as a trimming or finishing the bottom of a sleeve, which is closed with buttons or cufflinks.

ELEGANCE

From the Latin "elegantia" - the ability to choose. It a typical characteristic of someone or some apparel.

EMBROIDERY

Ornamental design generally obtained by hand-knitting to enrich a garment.

END-ON-END

Squared pattern on fabric obtained with the intersection of colored yarns in warp and weft with yarns of a different color. If the squares are full and checkered, they are called damier. They can be also small, and if they have an elaborate design it is about Glen Plaid. If they are large they are called windows.

EYELED

from the Latin "ansula"(see “asola” in Italian). Small cut in the fabric, edged with scalloped point where the button is placed.

EYE OF PARTRIDGE

Textile design created by alternating two threads, in the warp and weft: two clear wires with two dark ones. In this way really small, nearly rounded, dots are obtained, bearing in the middle a light point on dark background, vaguely similar to the eye of a partridge.

FIL-A-FIL

French idiomatic expression that literally means "wire to wire". Lightweight fabric, generally cotton, with the warp composed alternatively by a white and a colored wire, suited to sport, but even formal shirts. The optical effect is that of a microscopic needlecord or grid.

GLEN PLAID

(short form for Glen Urquart plaid) Famous textile carded and worsted, by the characteristic tartan pattern, with small squares into bigger ones, featuring several models, ranging from combination with ribbed effect star, to pied-de-poule, or even grisaille with "damier" design. The yarns employed are usually white and blacks or whites and brown, with the addition of another color such as red or blue to refine the design of the bigger squares. The effect is sporty and elegant at the same time. It was launched by the Prince of Wales, lately Edward VIII of England, from which it took its name.

GRAIN LINE

Thread of the weft of a fabric, used as a reference in the cutting phase.

GUSSET

Originates from the French term "mouche", that literally means "to fly". This small triangle of fabric is added to the bottom of the shirt entirely by hand. The function of the mouche is to strengthen the link between the front and the back of the shirt.

HEM

In tailoring, the hem is a garment finishing method, where the edge of a shirt or, generally, of a piece of cloth, bends back fabric and sewn with small stitches inside, in order to prevent unraveling of the fabric.

HERRINGBONE

Base texture or pattern of the carded or worsted fabrics, Herringbone describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern, with a diagonal texture alternated row by row, imitating fish bones or ears of corn.

HONEYCOMB

Also called waffle cloth, it is a linen, cotton or wool fabric with an embossed surface woven in a pattern in relief, crossed diagonally with hollows, resembling a honeycomb.

JACQUARD

Said of a points knitted which compose an intricate, variegated pattern by alternating threads of different colors.

LENO

An openwork, lightweight and transparent fabric with the warp threads twisted in pairs before weaving. Typically called "revolution twists", because they have curved direction and move now to the right, now to the left. It is used in clothing especially for shirts.

LINEN

One of longest natural fiber, it is highly resistant to washing and wear. It typically looks brilliant, even if it is rough to the touch and creases easily. Is worn with great pleasure, especially during warmer months. Indeed, there is no any other fabric cooler than linen.

LIST NECK

Is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric inserted or hidden into a seam to define the edges of a garment, typically sewn with the exposed part of the neckline.

MAKO'

Name of a place in Egypt where it is produced a type of fine, long fiber cotton, typically used for high-quality yarn and fabrics.

MOTHER-OF-PEARL

Tough and iridescent substance forming the inner layer of the oyster shell of some mollusks, used in ornamentation, to make buttons for clothes and dress shirts.

MUSLIN

Lightweight and soft, almost transparent fabric. Can be made up of silk, cotton or wool. Originally made in Mosul, Iraq, from which it takes its name. It is widely used in clothing.

OXFORD

Also called Oxford Cloth, it is a pure cotton or synthetic fabric, constructed on a pattern. The intersection of the white weft with a warp of another color forms a characteristic tiny squares pattern. It is used in shirts and is a classic men's clothing. The oxford fabric lends itself particularly to the creation of sports shirts (especially button-down shirts), even if they are less formal than the Batiste or Popeline.

PANAMA

Wool, cotton or other fibers fabric, made with a special scaffolding that doubles in equal number the warp yarns and the weft yarns.

PATTERN

The set of threads that are woven horizontally to the warp in weaving.

PIED-DE-POULE

French locution which means "crow´s foot". Design of small tissue, preferably two-toned, it reminds of the scaly skin of the bird feet. It can be obtained with plain or twill canvas, alternating four light and four dark wires in the warp and weft.

PIN-POINT

The pin-point fabric is an evolution of the Oxford kind, and shows a granular effect. Its pattern is composed by a series of needle-sized dots and, as well as in the Oxford, only the thread in the warp is colored.

PINCES

Small folds designed to revoke the width of a fabric. They are typically applied on the back of shirts.

PIPING

A narrow fold of fabric in a seam, hidden below the collar of the shirt, sewn with the exposed part of the neck called "band collar".

PIQUET

Cotton fabric generally white or of a light tone, characterized by a patterned surface in relief, composed by small ribs.

PLACKET

The placket is an opening in the upper part of the jacket or other garment, that covers the edges from the collar to the brim. In shirting is an inner part of the front, folded generally at 5 cm, where the slots and buttons are applied.

PLY

Adjective reported to many threads and yarns which have undergone a twist together to make a single thread, or one or more components, which is then woven into the fabric.

POCHETTE

French term indicating the handkerchief supposed to be put in the pocket of a jacket, as symbol of elegance. Usually white or the same color of the shirt.

POPELINE

Very compact and very fine fabric, characterized by the finer texture of the warp. It is produced with several kind of threads, but the most common, mercerized cotton, is widely used in shirts. The typical fabric for a formal shirt.

ROYAL OXFORD

The royal oxford fabric finds its roots in the late nineteenth Century England, and it is the version of "Kings" or the classic oxford fabric, more trimmed than normal version. It can be distinguished by its unique softness and shine, but above all for its outstanding consistency.

SEA ISLAND

The real SEA ISLAND cotton grows only in perfect weather conditions and is gathered exclusively in the British Isles of the West Indies in the Caribbean. The SEA ISLAND West Indian cotton is picked by hand and embellished with great skill, in order to avoid fiber damages. This rare and precious raw material contains the longest cotton fibers in the world, reaching a length up to 52 mm. The extraordinarily fine fibers are characterized by their purity and high resistance to tearing. A rigorous system of quality control and a network of partners created in the years guarantee the 100% purity of this precious good. The WISICA (West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association), as organization responsible for its sake, inspects every pound of cotton produced locally and releases the Certificate of Authenticity. The outcome: the perfect yarn structure ensures that the shirts made with SEA ISLAND textile are soft as cashmere and have minimum hairiness. They are light, cool, but at the same time washing resistant.

SEWING

From the Latin “consuere”. The activity of joining fabric pieces and other material with needle and thread.

SHAWL

A word used generally to describe a type of collar, realized in a single phase with the front. The shirts, and specifically for our "BDA and" NA " collar, it is realized with the technique of the jacket, combined with the placket to the front. For this reason is not available the " Neck Replacement " option.

SHIRT

From the Late Latin "camisia" or the greek "kamasos" - tunic. A piece of underwear with two parts generally visible as the collar and cuffs. This garment from basic clothing, has undergone various transformations over the years, in all its parts. Tight sleeves and wide collar, small or big, large or tight, but still essential for both men and women.

SILK

The noblest of natural fibers. Expensive for its kind of production and fine for its characteristics of gloss, elasticity, lightness and freshness, despite its thinness, it is a strong , resistant fabric with good thermal protection. It has always been considered as a product of the highest quality.

SOLID

Fabric or yarn of a single color.

STRETCH

English word that in the textile field indicates the elasticity of a fiber, a yarn and then a fabric.

TAILORED

Indicates the manufacturing and tailor-made in contrast to the cloth off-the-peg, packaged in series.

TEXTILE FIBRE

From the Latin words "textilis" and "fiber". Filamentous matter of varying quality and consistency, whose origin is classified into natural (animals or plants) and chemical (artificial or synthetic). Generally, it is thin and flexible, in such a way to permit its spinning and then its employ in the textile field. Examples: Wool is a natural animal fiber, linen is a plant natural fiber, the rayon is an artificial fiber, and nylon is a synthetic fiber.

TITLE

Is the word used to define the number of threads per square centimeter of tissue and is the result of the combination of vertical wires, called warp yarns, and the horizontal wires, called weft yarns.

TOUCH

Technical term used to indicate the tactile sensation you get by touching fabrics, yarns, or shirts. One can therefore speak of a soft, soft, dry, hard, stiff, tender, swollen, massive, quick, rough, soft, sustained "touch".

TWILL

Common name of all fabrics created by interlacing the warp and weft so that the fabric has diagonal lines or texture and a good elasticity. It is resistant to wrinkles and is really attractive for its glares. Fabric not suitable in summer.

TWO-PLY

Adjective referring to two threads and yarns which have undergone a "double twist" to merge one wires or component. This operation makes the fabric more durable granting it a superior quality.

VOILE

The "veil" is achieved by using very fine and twisted yarns, woven in a canvas structure. Light and semitransparent, it is suitable for summer shirts in solid colors.

WARP

The warp is a set of vertical lengthwise yarns, held in tension on a frame or loom, on which the fabric is inserted by the subsequent passage and the wire strands of the weft.

WEARABILITY

Property of a dress and more precisely of a shirt to fit someone, to adapt well to the body.

WEIGHT

The weight of a fabric can be expressed in grams per square meter (g / m²) or in grams per linear meter (g / ml) with a height typically of one meter and fifty (shirting). For example, if I have a fabric that weighs 160 grams per square meter with a height of mt. 1.50 and I want to obtain the weight in grams / linear meters, I'll proceed with the following formula:

160: 100 x 150 = 240 g / ml, and vice versa 240: 150 x 100 = 160 g / m²

WIRE

Set of continuous fibers, with or without twist.

YARN

Set of textile fibers joined together by twisting them, in order to obtain a long piece of flexible and extended fabric, suitable for the production of textile and cloth.

YOKE

Piece of fabric located on the upper back of a dress or of a shirt that connects the back of the garment to the shoulders. In French called "carrè".

ZEPHIR

The name originates from the wind zephyr and immediately evokes a sense of freshness. The canvas structure presents more warp-threads than the pattern and is arranged in a loose way, in order to make this precious material particularly suitable for summer time.

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